Racquet marketing is built around technology names that mean very little. The specifications that actually change how a racquet plays are simple: head size, weight, balance, grip size and strings.
Understand those five and you can choose sensibly at any price point, and ignore most of what is printed on the frame.
Head size
Measured in square inches, head size controls the size of the sweet spot and how forgiving the frame is on off-centre hits.
| Head size | Character | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 105 to 115 sq in | Large sweet spot, forgiving, more power | Beginners and players with shorter swings |
| 98 to 104 sq in | Balanced power and control | Improvers and most club players |
| 95 to 97 sq in | Precise, demands a full swing | Advanced players with fast swings |
The instinct to buy a small head because that is what professionals use is a common and expensive mistake. A smaller head only rewards you if your contact point is already consistent.
Weight and balance
Weight is measured unstrung or strung, which is why quoted figures vary. As a rough guide, under about 290 grams is light, 290 to 305 is mid, and above that is heavy.
Balance is expressed in points head-light or head-heavy. A head-light frame feels more manoeuvrable at the net; a head-heavy frame gives a lighter racquet more punch from the baseline. Most all-court frames sit slightly head-light.
| Player | Typical weight | Balance |
|---|---|---|
| Adult beginner | 260 to 290 g | Even or slightly head-heavy |
| Improving club player | 290 to 300 g | Slightly head-light |
| Strong club or competitive | 300 to 315 g | Head-light |
| Doubles specialist | 290 to 305 g | Head-light for quick hands at the net |
The test that matters: can you still swing it properly on the last game of a long third set? A frame that feels perfect for ten minutes in a shop can become unplayable when you are tired, and a late racquet costs more than a light one.
Grip size
Grip size is a separate question from grip type, which is covered in this guide to which tennis grip suits which shot. Most adults need 4 3/8, often labelled size 3. Too small and you grip too tightly, which travels straight up the arm; too large and you lose wrist mobility and control.
If you fall between sizes, always take the smaller one. An overgrip adds roughly half a size, so you can build up. You cannot shrink a handle.
Strings, which matter more than the frame
Players agonise over frames and then ignore strings, which is the wrong way round. The full breakdown of types, gauge and tension is in this guide to tennis strings. Strings have a larger effect on feel, comfort and spin than most frame differences, and they are also the cheaper thing to change. Before replacing a racquet you are unhappy with, try a different string at a different tension in the frame you already own.
| String | Feel | Durability | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Synthetic gut | Soft, balanced | Moderate | Beginners; best value |
| Multifilament | Soft, comfortable, powerful | Moderate | Arm comfort; most club players |
| Polyester | Firm, controlled, high spin | High, but loses tension fast | Hard hitters who break strings |
| Natural gut | Exceptional feel and comfort | Low; expensive | Players prioritising comfort |
| Hybrid | Mix of two types | Varies | Spin with some comfort retained |
- A multifilament around 53 to 55 lbs is a safe default for most club players.
- In a hybrid, string the polyester about 2 lbs lower than the multifilament.
- Do not string full polyester above roughly 54 lbs; the stiffness is hard on the arm.
- Lower tension means more power; higher tension means more control.
- If you have had tennis elbow, avoid stiff polyester entirely.
Junior racquets: size by height
Junior frames are sized by length in inches, and the correct length matters far more than brand. A racquet that is too long forces a child to compensate with their whole body, and those compensations are hard to remove later.
| Child height | Racquet length | Typical age |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 40 in | 19 in | 3 to 5 |
| 40 to 44 in | 21 in | 5 to 6 |
| 44 to 49 in | 23 in | 6 to 8 |
| 49 to 55 in | 25 in | 8 to 10 |
| 55 to 63 in | 26 in | 10 to 12 |
| Over 63 in | 27 in (adult) | 12+ |
Resist buying long for them to grow into. It is the most common and most damaging equipment error in junior tennis. Progressing through the correct sizes alongside the junior tennis pathway in Northern California produces far better technique.
How to actually choose
- Demo before you buy. Most specialist shops run demo programmes; a frame that reads well on paper can feel wrong in your hand.
- Demo two or three frames on the same day, in the same conditions.
- Play a set with each rather than only hitting. Fatigue reveals a lot.
- Have them strung similarly so you are comparing frames, not strings.
- Ignore the paint job and the technology names entirely.
The LTA equipment guide is a useful neutral reference, since it is not selling you a frame.
What not to spend money on
A better racquet will not fix a technical fault. If budget is the constraint, this guide to tennis gear on a budget covers what to buy used and what never to skimp on. If your forehand floats long, it is a swing path problem, not a frame problem, and a new racquet is an expensive way to postpone dealing with it.
The same applies to weight. Adding a few grams of lead tape at the head or handle changes how a racquet swings far more cheaply than buying a new one, and a good stringer can advise on it in ten minutes.
Spend on strings and a fresh grip before you spend on a frame. Then spend on coaching, which changes more than any equipment. A few other training tools worth owning are listed on the tennis training equipment I recommend, and if you are unsure whether your gear or your technique is the limiting factor, a private lesson in Redwood Shores will answer that quickly.
Frequently asked questions
What racquet should a beginner use?
A lighter frame around 260 to 290 grams with a larger head, roughly 100 to 110 square inches. The bigger head gives a larger sweet spot and more forgiveness on off-centre hits, and the lighter weight makes it easier to swing while technique develops.
How do you know your grip size?
Most adults use a 4 3/8 grip, sometimes written as size 3. If you are between sizes, choose the smaller one and add an overgrip. You can build a grip up but you cannot make it smaller.
What string tension should I use?
For a multifilament string, somewhere around 53 to 55 pounds is a sensible starting point. Lower tension gives more power, higher tension gives more control. Avoid stringing full polyester above about 54 pounds, because the combined stiffness is hard on the arm.
Does a heavier racquet give more power?
More mass at contact does produce more power, but only if you can swing it properly. A racquet that is too heavy slows your swing and arrives late, which loses far more than the extra mass gains. Swing speed usually matters more than frame weight.
How often should you restring?
A common rule is to restring as many times a year as you play per week. Strings lose tension steadily even unused, so a racquet strung two years ago is worth redoing even if the strings have not broken.
Written by Claire Carter, a former WTA Tour professional and full-time teaching pro at Bay Club Redwood Shores, where she has coached juniors and adults for more than twelve years.
Image credits: Bare Kind (Unsplash), Kristiina Klaas (Unsplash), Nenyasha Manzvera (Pexels), Payam Zolfagharian (Pexels), RDNE Stock project (Pexels), The Drink Break (Unsplash). Photographs are illustrative.